Well i just got my case back from being machined, case savers installed, and crank ground. She looks hot . For those interested it cost about $1200 and took about 1 week, It was done in Lonsdale SA by V & T Motors (08) 8382 8111, They literally have a machine shop just for VW motors which used to operate 24/7 pretty much back in the late 70’s now not so much , but they did an excellent job, even to the point of getting the casing to the correct temp exactly if not they would start again from scratch.

If you don’t know why this was needed basically after years of service the thumping of the cam shaft on the bearings impact into the magnesium case. E.g Follows:

 Now its all shiny.

Other news I cleaned up the front beam blew all the crap off (grease dirt etc), and painted her up.. (but it was annoying moving the front beam around (mental note next time i need to take it off reverse into the garage .

That engine trolley came in useful to keep the pan movable.

Finally put the front end back on (man was that a pain in the ass, don’t look forward to doing it again.

Also blasted the ass end with water and the rubbed her bacl and gave her a nice high temp  paint, looks sweet.

I also grabbed these for $20 both straight and in good cond (unsure if i will use the yet) but i have never seen the  closer style of bumper before, any ideas?

Anyway until next time., I’m a bit slow lately because I’m looking at buying a house to move all my beetles too as their current living quarters are being sold . So wish me luck.

Summer is here and that is good as it gives me time to work on both my beetles. But i thought i would share a few of my latest items from good ole ebay.

Here we go 2 Prelude seats for the good beetle, I havent had time yet to look at the seat mounts but i reckon it should all work out, The guy i grabbed it from had the excess material from the back seats of the prelude so with any luck i should be able to get the back seats trimmed with it. Not bad for $50.

Grabbed this new mean looking steering wheel (http://shop.ebay.com.au/merchant/thriving168), was about $90 after shipping and was hoping for a blue VW logo but its really nice, just need a nice new boss adapter.

Grabbed this awesome engine trolley (my supermarket trolley was good but was a bit lacking), this guy made these on ebay he also makes some other awesome tools to work on beetles with. Hopefully will get a online shop up for him, but for now you can get the tools at http://shop.ebay.com.au/merchant/yasdnil01

I’m guessing he may shutdown for the xmas period, here are the two other tools I grabbed from him, Awesome Quality Pulley Puller and that hex nut for that annoying transmission hole to put diff oil in through. (not sure of correct term). All those tools worked out to be less then $100 with shipping how the hell could you go wrong with that price?

Also yesterday i picked up a fiberglass set off ebay for $100 how could i go wrong, all i was really after was the bonnet but its good to  have a few more spare fenders (especially ones that can be repaired easily like fiberglass).

This isnt such an ebay item but i went to InterVolks down here in adelaide (Main North Road), and picked up a set of J tubes for the beetle for $40 to get rid of that useless heater pipes (also makes getting to the rocker covers easier). Also from intervolks picked up a few seals and exhaust gaskets.

In the past few weeks i have also picked up a new set of wheels for the car (stock) just because i wanted new tyres and it was cheaper, they were about $60 for 4 wheels 3 useable tred.

There she is, on the great trolley dolly.

Tinware off, these photos arent just for you people out there they are for me so i can remember where everything went

The infamous flex plate and its nut 36mm (grabbed the socket ordered in for me at sprint auto parts was only 25 bux). I found out that this is under 230 ft pounds of torque, so no normal torque wrench can undo it or even do it up. But first problem first, when the gland nut spins the whole flexplate spins, there exists an official tool to help you out here (i saw one for sale but it was $100usd) i decided to make my own.

So i used the original bolts that held the torque converter onto the plate and then just bolts that fit into the engine mount holes, I used 2 of them diagonally across from each other, but i would suggest maybe having 4 cause its fairly easy to bend and i almost did bend it.

Getting the gland nut off was killing me i couldn’t move it with 2 people helping (aka jumping on an extension for the ratchet), I decided to go out and buy a 1/2″ air ratchet (nice big bastard). I wasn’t sure if it would work we tried it and there was nothing, i went to the compressor and red lined the air, and sprayed WD40 on it with about a 30 second burst i saw the tiniest of movement, left if a few seconds and gave it a second go, pop off she came with much rejoicing.

At the same time i will talk about the supposedly easy removable pulley, i bought one of those pulley pullers after much searching, i gave it a go the puller creeked and the puller snaped in the middle, i thought “doesn’t anything happen the way it should” then i reminded myself its a VW. I grabbed 2 heavy duty G clamps and a big piece of flat steel, and started doing the clamps up, the metal bar bent, cut it in half and doubled it up and gave it a go and finally pop out it came.

Finally in pieces, take note when pulling the automatic oil pump and normal oil pump out make sure you got both pieces out of the engine (other wise its a bit hard to pull the case apart. Also the oil strainer under the engine sump also appears to come out

So this is the inside of the crank case where the bearings sit.. now the one on the LHS is worrying me and looks fairly worn. 

Now am i looking for a reconditioned case? or can i grab some fine wet/dry sandpaper and carefully take it back a bit? Any help would be great.

That’s all for now, several cool new topics on there way.

Well i think i did this before i removed the engine but i only just rememeberd it. I found info on this part scarce as well. I actually ordered new rubbers with the chrome trim from west coast metric, fast shipping from the US by fedEx so its trackable, and fairly good prices.

So thats the back window (I didnt take pics of the front or the side woops but its all the same)

MY father had this super duper tool to cut rubber, it cut the rubber and didnt scratch the glass. As i didnt need to keep the seals i just cut parralell to the glass and after a few cuts the rubber came out and the glass was removable, i would suggest having two people here as you dont really want to smash the glass (its been 40 years and it doesnt even have a chip).

Front window out

Side window out.

Now for the headlining removal i took a video explaining what i did and what i found, as again i couldnt see to much of this documented.

And thats it really for this post

Thats behind the seat removal

I will copy the post i posted on the vwar.org forums.

 

I removed the motor from an auto stick today. It went well (as in I got the motor out) and bad (as in I now have a removable rear valance)

 

Okies well there I was watching and reading the diy guides on motor removal, but it looked fairly simple and as the Bentley hadn’t arrived I decided to ump on in.

 

With guidance from 68autobug and a few others on the vwar.org forum I jumped in.

 

Now I will go from start to finish (as I was a complete amateur at this)

 

First we undo the accelerator cable from the carbie and push it into the tinware (and out the back)

 

Next undo any pipes that are leading from the control valve to the carbie. Also you will notice a pipe coming out the front bit of the tinware that has a bolt on it BE very careful if you bend this your rooted, use two spanners to do it and a heck of a-lot of WD40.

 

Now go for a scoot under the car (drain the oil), find where the accelerator cable is and pull it out (I found that I needed someone to jiggle the other side of the cable to find it)

 

There is also a fuel line down there so undo it and chuck a screw driver in the end to stop it leaking (I still got petrol all over me).

 

There is also 1 pipe that leads to the control valve just undo it from the valve itself and pull it through (not sure if this is really needed)

 

Being a 1600DP motor that means its the normal dog house fan shroud. So I remove the first bolt on the top behind the shroud (RHS)

 

Next one was a so called “easy” one to get to, I reckon I spent the good part of two hours here, the bolt which would be easy to get to on a standard manual was now obscured by the clutch armature (tank) {that may be the wrong description}. You could reach the bolt here but I just couldn’t seem to get enough leverage on the bolt to undo (you know how ratchet and extensions can be) it. Anyway I ended up grabbing my trusty 10mm ratchet and taking the 3 bolts that hold the tank in, out. Then its held with a tube clip to the armature I just closed it and popped the connector out. Now I could remove the tank and get to the bolt and use some strength to undo it (I almost had a hernia here).

 

The following bolt is like directly below the first bolt (10 or so cms), nice and easy and the final bolt is on the other side in the same identical spot to the previous.

 

I then undid the lot of 4 bolts that I believe affix the torque converter, they are directly below the last two screws and easy to get to. (this is WRONG)

 

By now you more then likely need a shower and a nice big eye rinse (I was black lol)

 

So were at the spot where we drop the motor.. all the books said just pull the tail pipes with a jack under the oil strainer and she will disengage.. Which is what I did sure it came out, but I physically couldn’t get the motor forward enough to pull out, then I realised my aftermarket exhaust was stoping the movement of the engine, I undid the exhaust and gave it a go.. damn still cant get the motor out far enough for the teeth on the torque converter to clear,  (now seeing the torque converter isn’t meant to happen it turns out there are 4 8mm/10mm bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate, to reach them you need to go under the car {before you take the motor out} and undo the 4 screws through the access holes on the side of the transmission housing). So here I am motor half out torque converter teeth grinding on the transmission housing, and every move I’m getting worried this motor removal could be terminal.

 

I remembered a quick post I here about the car needing to be level (as the backend was just jacked up) it didn’t seem to make much difference.

 

I just sat there defeated by what is supposedly the basic of basic motor removals. I thought screw it I ground the rear apron off and the motor came out beautifully. (with the thoughts of making it into a removable apron later.)

 

I replacement aprons a few days back for $40 each brand new, you think I could find some in stock after I cut the apron off????.

So yeah oops but then again makes life easier with a removeable apron in the future.

What i thought i would post here is the greatest thing ever. I was chatting on the aussieveedubbers.com forums about an engine trolly,and i went seatching high and low but they wanted upwards of 150 bux for one and for something i may only use 2 or 3 times.  (thanks to Matt Ryanfrom Aussieveedubbers for finding this pic at Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project.

Notch Nutfrom Aussieveedubbers let me in on a secret shopping trolleys make the best motor dollies. The story here is amazing, I seriously read this post and thought but how the heck could i get a trolly i don’t live near any supermarkets and i don’t know of any compulsive shopping trolly hoarders near by. Anyway to the good part a few days after notch nuts post i was driving near coles and i was saying to my partner “i really need just the trolly base” and believe it or not there is this beauty sitting in the middle of the road no basket to be seen, i opened my boot threw her in and was on my way, sometimes you just have to be lucky.

And that’s basically how it works.

and there she is in use works a treat, thanks guys.