Okies first sign of rust on my little 1968.
This rust was under the front bonnet seal (or was the front bonnet seal) i grabbed a Flathead screwdriver and a nice trusty hamer and broke all the tacks off the front seal.
I will grind these down to nothing, now alot of you are thinking ok how does the rubber stick on the bonnet now, well the mexicans in their wisdom have designed a seal that sticks to the bonnet itself (ETA unknown).
Ground down nice and flat, used a wire brush on an angle grinder to do it (well to be honest father took over that job and did a great job)
Put bristle’s rust converter on the rust and man does it do an amazing job (later found out the fumes are cancer causing), But can i please note if you do this dont do it near somewhere where your workign, this black stuff gets all over you and it takes days to get it off (and never off your clothes).
Also found out they made rear mexican seals so off came the rear seal. Also in this picture you can see the shithouse job the repair shop did painting and bogging the rear apron.. (not a big issue you will see why soon). In this picture you can also see the ATF tank.
The damn black rust converter
Deprecated: ltrim(): Passing null to parameter #1 ($string) of type string is deprecated in /home/eraser3/vwgeek.com/wp-includes/wp-db.php on line 3030
One reply on “Front Seal and rust.”
Hi
Firstly..lol.. a 1968 beetle was made between 1st AUG 1967 and 31st July 1968 – VW model Year
I used a 3/4 drive socket with 5ft of pipe attached… and jumped up and down..
Rear Axle Nuts are similar… same torque…
I sent My block away and had it align bored.. so everything would align up when it was getting rebuilt.
I have been fiddling about with the oil cooler… First a large oil cooler sat over the engine fan shroud
with the engine lid open at top with alloy brackets [can never remember what those are called]
when I closed the engine lid for winter I placed the doghouse oil cooler under the RHS near the tappet cover. its still there but I have a transmission oil cooler to place over the fan behind the fan shroud..
it should work OK in the winter with the lid closed and in the summer with the lid open…
Not sure whether We are going to have any summer this time round although its 33.9C outside it didn’t seem too hot… once its over 35C the air is just too hot for the air cooled engine… IMHO
My Son Scott was in the US last year and went to BFY and ordered all the rubbers for a split window Kombi plus other bits and paid for them…
He still hasn’t received them… BFY doesn’t answer His emails Now…
a fellow who used to work there told My Son that they buy their rubbers from Wolfsburg West in the USA.. I have bought a few times from CIP1… their quality it excellent… pricing is good…
freight is a pain though… always more than the parts… lol
I tried to buy VW parts from the USA and have them shipped to an address that someone from Australia is going to stay… but the shops I tried , would ONLY ship to the address on MY mastercard… some are now taking PAYPAL which is excellent.. best way to pay for stuff overseas..
I found many smaller shops don’t want to sell anything over seas…
I remember a few years ago – I tried to buy some VW stickers for the engine bay etc… as this was the only supplier I could find back then.. they wanted to send them in a packet which was going to cost about $20 freight… I said – put them in an ordinary airmail envelope and post them…
they couldn’t do that…. also found a place that makes and sells accelerator clutch etc cables that Never break.. they didn’t want to sell outside the US either…
cheers
LEE
PS: Have you ever come across David Stephenson who now lives in Adelaide but works in ACT.
He’s My brother in law… Not sure what He does – as he’d have to kill Us if we knew… lol